Training Guide - Simulator Finger Board

Principals

Fingerboards are most effective at training contact strength and general upper body strength. Contact strength, also referred to as finger strength, is simply the ability to hold onto the holds (as opposed to the ability to move between the holds). It is the single most important type of strength for a climber to have. If you can't even hold onto the grips, there is no way you will be able to move between them.

Fundamentals

Ten Minute Sequence

The 10 minute sequence consists of a series of tasks performed each minute, with the remaining time used to rest until the start of the next minute. It is an excellent format for training both strength and stamina in the same workout, for improving your recovery, or just for warming up. It is also a great way to simulate the demands of your current project. We have included three sample routines (beginning, intermediate & advanced), but the ten-minute sequence is most effective when you custom tailor it to your own personal needs. Be creative and don't limit yourself. It could be five minutes or thirty minutes; you could do it in 45 second cycles or two-minute cycles. Experiment with your training and keep it as varied as possible.
3D Simulator Numbers

Time Entry level routine Intermediate routine Advanced routine
1st
minute
10 second dead hang, deep flat edge (7) 25 second dead hang,
medium edge (5)
25 second dead hang shallow edge (6), 5 pull-ups three finger pockets (9)
2nd minute 15 second dead hang + one pull-up, outer jugs (1) 20 second dead hang, flat slopers (2), 3 pull-ups flat slopers 5 offset pull-ups, pockets (15 & 12), reverse holds repeat
3rd
minute
2 offset pull-up (1 each arm) center jug (14) & deep three finger pockets (4) 15 second bent arm hang, shallow edge (6) & 10 knee raises, jugs (1) 45 second dead hang, extra shallow
edges (11)
4th
minute
15 second dead hang, extra deep 3 finger pockets (9) 15 second dead hang flat slope (2), 15 second dead hang round
slopers (3)
5 offset pull-ups, round sloper (3) & deep pocket (4), reverse holds repeat
5th
minute
12 second dead hang flat slopers (2) & 5 knee raises outer jugs (1) 20 second offset hang , jug (1) & shallow pocket (17), reverse holds - repeat 10 second dead hang, x-shallow edges (11), staying on, campus to three finger pockets (9), campus to shallow edges (6), campus to flat slopers (2),
hold for 15 seconds
6th
minute
16 second offset hang / (8 sec per side), deep pocket (15) & shallow edge (5) 15 second offset hang, pockets (4 & 9), reverse holds and repeat 15 second one arm hang, round sloper (3), rest 10 seconds, repeat other arm
7th
minute
3 pull-ups outer jugs (1) 4 pull-ups, medium edges, 10 knee raises any holds 5 L-sit pull-ups (bend knees if you have to), jugs (1), 20 second bent arm hang (elbows @ 90), deep two finger
pockets (12)
8th
minute
8 second bent arm hang (elbows @ 90),
round slopers (3)
30 second dead hang,
deep pockets (7)
20 second slightly bent arm hang, shallow 3 finger pocket (8), stay on, bump to x-deep three finger pockets 25 second
dead hang
9th
minute
1 pull-up & then 10 second hang, ext-deep 3 finger pocket (9) 10 sec one arm hang jugs (1), repeat other arm 10 second hang center pockets (18 & 17), reverse holds repeat, three power pull-ups (use weights or helper for resistance, should just be able to complete third pull)
10th minute dead hang to failure,
any holds
5 pull-ups deep edges (7), without dropping off, bump up to round slopers (3) & dead hang till failure 8 fast pull-ups, jugs (1) (keeping form perfect), dead hang round sloper to failure (fighting hard!)
Totals 7 pull-ups / hang time = 1:26 + final dead hang (ok to use feet on chair to lower resistance, place 1'- 3' behind plane of board) 12 pull-ups / 20 knee raises / hang time = 3:30 + final dead hang 33 pull-ups / hang time = 3:38 + final
dead hang


More Exercises

Cyclic Periodization

We would next like to introduce cyclic periodization as a method for planning a year of training. As an overview strategy, cyclic periodization allows you to be at your peak when you want to be. Properly done, chances of injury and mental burnout are minimized. Also, the amount of time you spend stuck at conditioning and strength plateaus tends to decrease.

Our version of cyclic periodization consists of five major cycles, which are sequentially organized to cover an entire climbing/training year. The five major cycles are as follows:

Conditioning Cycle

During this cycle, you should train at 60 to 70% of your maximum effort (if you can hang fully rested for one minute, then 65% intensity would be hanging 40 seconds). The volume of work should be moderate, with long hang times and many repetitions. Spend one to two days a week in the gym during this cycle. Do not push yourself to absolute failure.

This period serves as a warm-up and active rest cycle. As a warm-up, the conditioning phase prepares the body for the intense training to come. As an active rest phase, it assures that no major de-conditioning occurs, while providing a mental and physical break from strenuous workouts.

Load Cycle

During this cycle, you should train at 70 to 80 % of your maximum effort. The volume of work should be moderate to high with long hang times and many repetitions. Three to five days per week should be spent in the gym.

The load cycle builds endurance, connective tissue and some muscle strength and provides specific movement. During this phase, work in micro cycles of a hard day, easy day and moderate day. Then, repeat the micro cycle with more weight and/or longer hang times. During the last part of the load cycle, you will actually be weaker than in the middle of the cycle due to the high volume. In this endurance-oriented phase, you should only occasionally be pushing yourself to your absolute failure point. Strenuous climbing days may occasionally be substituted for time in the gym.

Recovery Cycle

During the recovery cycle you should train lightly at 50 to 60% of your maximum effort. The volume of work should be low, with short hang times and few repetitions. Spend no more than one to two easy days a week in the gym during this phase. The recovery phase prepares your body for the upcoming intense.

Peak Cycle

During the peak, you should train at 80 to 100% of your maximum effort. The volume of work should be low with high resistance, low hang times, and few repetitions. Two to three days a week should be spent in the gym during this phase.

The peak cycle produces maximum strength and power (muscle hypertrophy). As in the load cycle, work in a hard/easy/moderate micro cycle. In this phase, you should usually be pushing yourself to your maximum. Many climbers will need to hang weights from their waist to keep the hang times short. Unlike the load cycle, climbing days cannot substitute for gym days during this phase.

Off Cycle

During the off cycle, you should spend no time in the gym whatsoever. Your body will now be peaked to climb very hard.

Now comes the tricky part — combining these cycles with your climbing time. You must be sure to spend enough time on the rock during your training to insure that you will be climbing well when your peak arrives. Ideally, this should occur just as the weather begins to improve.

The following table shows what gym and climbing time might look like using cyclic periodization to plan a year of training at our home area—Smith Rock. We will start at the end of the usual climbing season in early November.

Date
Cycle
Climbing Time Per Week
11/1 to 11/15
Conditioning
1 to 2
11/16 to 2/1
Load
1 to 2
2/2 to 2/15
Recovery
1 to 2
2/16 to 3/15
Peak
1 to 2
3/16 to 4/1
Peak
4 to 5
4/2 to 6/1
Off
4 to 6
6/2 to 6/30
Condition
1 to 3
7/1 to 7/31
Load
1 to 3
8/1 to 8/15
Recovery
1 to 3
8/16 to 9/15
Peak
2 to 4
9/16 to 10/31
Off
4 to 6


These are only general guidelines. The specific variables are up to you. For example, how will you alter your late peak cycle training to accommodate serious redpoint attempts? How much climbing do you want to do over the entire year? This adapting of cyclic periodization to fit your own needs results in a training schedule you'll be much happier with. GOOD LUCK!

Warning All Training Board Users: Training on a hangboard carries risk of injury to fingers, arms, shoulders and the joints connecting them. Take every precaution to avoid damage to yourself; warm-up, stretch, don't overtrain and listen to your body. Remember, even under the best of circumstances, injuries can occur. In addition, however you mount your board, be sure that it cannot move in any direction. There should be no possible way for the board to come down while training.

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